An Accidental Enterprise
Packaged gear for the new webstore. One of the things that keeps life interesting is trying new things: a new ...
A Foray into the Fast Unknown
Ganymede: a heavy, full-keel, gaff-rigged cutter. It has probably become obvious to the alert reader that I’m partial to full-keel, ...
A Synthetic Rigging Upgrade: Vectran to Dyneema
Ganymede sailing hard with synthetic rigging. Masthead with soft attachments and the Lashing Tang When we first rigged Ganymede’s light-pole ...
Refit and Relaunch
Picking Ganymede up with an hydraulic trailer Launching by trailer at a public launch ramp in Bristol The surest way ...
Believe in the Method
The beginning of the method And if I haven’t had time to update this blog lately, dear Reader: be comforted! ...
Returning to Normal?
The Arctic is not most people's "normal" I wondered, as Polar Sun rolled downwind across the Beaufort Sea along the ...
The Final Push is Half the Battle.
Gjoa Haven, on King WIllian Island, Nunavut. It was as if the world had run out of interesting, that week ...
A Farewell to Ice
Hanging out in Pasley Bay We weren’t expecting to get out of Pasley Bay on our last day there, and ...
Foolish, Careless, or Unlucky?
Pack ice approaching Pasley Bay. “Well,” we thought. “Here we are again!” I’m talking, of course, about the south arm ...
Farthest North
Beechey Island, at 74 1/2 degrees North latitude. It was cold as Polar Sun motored at length into the spacious ...
Managed Expectations
Crossing Baffin Bay from Greenland to Baffin Island. The tricky thing about expectations is that no matter how well you ...
The Treasures of the Snow
The Icefjord I'm about to talk about. We didn’t spend a whole lot of time in Aasiaat. To begin with, ...
Into the Arctic
Nuuk is very lovely when the weather's good... Nothing I had ever read or heard had led me to believe ...
Late Nights and Big Crossings
Red Bay, Labrador It was supposed to be an easy run from Flowers Cove, Newfoundland, to Chateau Bay, Labrador: gentle ...
Leaving with Regret
Cruising Newfoundland with the family some years back. There have been, in the nearly thirty years that I’ve been cruising, ...
Sailing for Greenland
Polar Sun, a Stevens 47, enroute to Greenland For nearly a year before this trip began, neither Mark nor I ...
When Time is Short
Breadboat on a trailer A test-row on Psammead. When only a few weeks were left before my departure for a ...
Preparing for the Unknown
Ganymede's cabin getting stowed and sorted for a voyage to the tropics. Once there, all you need is bare feet ...
Winter’s Final Bite
The final blow to the canopy, after the snow receded. I mentioned, a few posts back, the ill-fated bow shed ...
Invention’s Other Mother
Adapting a bracket for the windvane while at anchor One of the reasons that the old saw about necessity being ...
Catching up Some More
Ganymede uncovered in winter In a huge departure from my normal practice of letting everyone forget I even have a ...
Catching Up
A half dozen or so blog posts back, before getting distracted by the tiny schooner Pshrimp, I hinted at a ...
All You Can Really Want
View from Cathedral Ledge in New Hampshire For about a week after the first failed launch of Pshrimp that I ...
The “P” is Psilent
Emily paints Pshrimp's name on It happens, from time to time, that an alert reader or acquaintance will express wonder ...
A Paper Trail for a Plywood Boat
Spring, where we live, always comes in fits and starts. Last month I wore shorts to work; two days later ...
A Season for Not Much
February in New England When King Solomon famously said that there is a season for everything, he obviously had not ...
A Man’s Home is His Boatyard
A tiny schooner, a canopy, and a dinghy. Of all the advantages of owning a decent-sized property rather than renting ...
Feeling Technical
When I pitched the idea of a series of boatbuilding articles to Cruising World magazine fourteen years ago, I sent ...
Casting Bread on the Waters
What goes around comes around, they say. I little imagined, when I gave away my first cruising boat more than ...
Post in the Time of Pandemic
I had hoped, while writing the last blog post, that by the time I wrote this next one the whole ...
Nothing to Blog About
For the last, oh, more than a year now, the realization has been growing that it’s been a long time ...
A Seafaring State of Mind
Life—at least mine—seems to come in phases. There are seasons when it feels like all I do is grind itchy ...
A Navigation Experiment
After spending only half the winter grinding fiberglass in the boat shop I mentioned in my last post, my full-time ...
Always Just a Little More
And if I haven’t blogged all winter, it’s mostly because, unlike last winter when I had plenty of time to ...
Will There Be A Mad Cow?
My wife Danielle and I have been married for quite some time. How long exactly I can’t say—no doubt my ...
A Sailing Bonanza
Every once in a while, the changing tides of life and work leave me not with a mountain of things ...
Ready for Summer in Time for Fall
With the coming of summer, and having the dinghy project wrapped up, I was finally free to turn to a ...
Working Outside Again
Of all the benefits of warm weather, being able to work outside is one of the finest—having the dinghy twenty ...
A Little Breather….Cloth
While I was willing, as the last blog post illustrates, to paint in almost all conditions in order to get ...
The Most Pessimistic Painter
There was a delay of some weeks in working further on the dinghy, since Ganymede needed to be finished and ...
No Regard For Tradition
With the buffing to shiny of the dinghy plug, which is where the last blog post left her, things could ...
A Red-Letter Occasion?
It is telling, perhaps, of how uninteresting sanding is, that every time you get to move from one grit to ...
A Sandwich of Affliction
There seem to be three choices open to the person who finds he keeps needing to do something completely repugnant ...
Late to Supper
Given the severity of the last several winters, I had never imagined that it would be possible to do fiberglass ...
A Whole Lotta Boat Building
It was pretty agonizing, trying to decide whether to make any modifications to Ganymede's cockpit geometry. I mean, since I'm ...
Interesting Times?
It's the dead of winter again, and with all my rigging projects wrapped up till spring comissioning time, I have ...
Never Say Never
Some years ago, when nearing the completion of our home-finished boat, I testified in a magazine article that once I ...
Too Hot to Think
I'd like to say (and think) that the reason I haven't written a blog post all summer is because I ...
A Good Job to Have
When I became captain of an 80-foot sailing schooner roughly one year ago, I really didn't want too much more ...
Plumbing Implausible
A couple of blog postings ago I promised you, my readers, details on Ganymede's new plumbing setup. This will probably ...
Taking Time to Tinker
One of the things I almost regretted giving up when we went cruising was a workshop—a place to fiddle about ...
In short, what winter ought to be like.
After the dreadful hue and cry of the past three winters, each marked by some extraordinary extreme—whether violent gales, or ...
Activity is a Virtue
I had reproached myself on more than one occasion last winter for leaving Ganymede in the water rather than hauling ...
Keep On Sailing
Ever since our move ashore, the care and upkeep of Ganymede has been necessarily pushed to the back burner. It ...
The Zartman Nautical Depository
One of the best parts of preparing for a cruise on Ganymede (and on Capella before her), was the day ...
In For a Penny, In For a Pound
One of the advantages of living and working in a boatbuilding town is that you’re surrounded by boatbuilders, and boatbuilding ...
Captains Outrageous
Sailing season has returned to New England again, and is quickly going into full swing. There’s nothing like the strong ...
Improving, Maintaining, Re-inventing
It seems pretty cliché to say that winter seemed long—no doubt every winter in every generation has seemed long, especially ...
Throwing Caution to the Winds
It is, by all appearances, the dead of winter. There’s piles of snow all around—not as big as when we ...
Precautionary Maintenance and General Purging
There are few things more satisfying to my seafaring soul than periodically emptying the boat of EVERYTHING and giving her ...
Abednego Marine
One of the pitfalls of reading too many books in your youth is that you’ll go into situations with preconceived ...
The Day of Small Beginnings
One of the hardest things about setting out cruising five years ago was closing down the business I had created, ...
Civilized Yachting, or, The Benefits of Dry Saltines
One would think that having a job where you spent twelve hours a day sailing would leave you ready to ...
The Genie of the Lamps
Even though it’s happening more and more often, it doesn’t fail to astonish me whenever I get an email from ...
Multiplied Exponentially
Going to captain’s license school is kind of like getting a college degree in English: it’s absolutely useless for any ...
Chimney Chronicles
For the nearly five years that we’ve been living full-time aboard Ganymede, our lighting situation has been a never-ending saga ...
The Root of all Evil
Inevitably, the arrival of spring in Newport heralds the arrival of boats—boats by the hundred, flocking to the sailing capital ...
Why is a Schooner?
For as long as I can remember there has been a story of how the particular sort of boat known ...
Seamanship Undefined
There’s a lot of talk, in online forums, on blogs, and in magazines, about what exactly constitutes ‘Good Seamanship’. For ...
Spring into Action
We had begun to despair, some of us, that spring would ever arrive. As the season advanced into what should ...
The Perfect Cruising Boat
Every so often, an aspiring seafarer will log into an internet sailing forum and ask, “Exactly what is the perfect ...
Building Boats Again
What do sailors do when they come ashore? Build boats, of course. When Ganymede launched, three years after construction began, ...
No Metric Equivalent
I saw one time, at a museum in Virginia, a curious watch with only ten hours marked on the dial ...
Now What? How to Become Landlubbers Again
The worst thing for me about taking a break from cruising is having to find a job. Not the job ...
Not A Day Too Soon
As we had struggled up the St Lawrence River and down the canal systems toward the Hudson river, discussion of ...
All in a Rush in New York
They say that one can get used to almost anything, if done often enough. I wasn’t so sure of that ...
Another Place on the List
Our last day in Canadian waters began with a bang; a series of bangs actually, as the first grey light ...
Over The Hump
“No worries,” I had been telling everyone for the last month—everyone who had pointed out that to go through the ...
Almost There: Home Stretch on the Unrelenting River
The charts we bought in Newfoundland for the St Lawrence River have a neat feature: a letter inside a little ...
Hope Deferred, and Hope Again
Matane, Quebec, is on the south shore of the St Lawrence River just at the edge of where it narrows ...
Aurora Borealis Cruising
I’ve never been good at reading tide tables—not because I can’t muddle out an answer from them, but because my ...
Looking Back
It seems a shame to break the flow of narrative as succesive blog postings take you with us from faraway ...
The Race Begins at the End of the Road
Natashquan, Quebec, was until very recently the literal end of the road. Though it now goes a few miles further ...
Milestones and Obstacles
There was ice on Ganymede’s decks the morning we left Harrington Harbor. No surprise—it had been chilly enough to have ...
Living History in La Tabatiere
La Tabatiere, which evidently comes from a French word meaning “The Tabatiere,” is the hub of the outport settlements between ...
The Windy Wilds of Quebec
Our first stop in the province of Quebec, at a little place called La Falaise, was all among rocky islands ...
The Last of Everything
“Dig out some more rice while you’re down there,” I called, upending the last little bit out of the ready ...
The End of Newfoundland
The very top of the Northern Peninsula of Newfoundland, at almost 52 degrees of North latitude, is a chilly place ...
Quirpon is pronounced “Cahr-poon”
St Anthony, Newfoundland, was not an unpleasant place to spend a week. There were two decent grocery stores, a public ...
Turkey Necks in Fleur-de-Lys
La Scie, just on the north side of Cape John, is the first of the old French fishing ports encountered ...
Where North is Down
We were talking about Labrador, a local and I, and I asked him whether a place was further up along ...
Noseworthy for Mayor
At first, Twilingate appeared to brim with promise. Negociating the approach channel we saw the back of a Foodland supermarket ...
Fogo Finally
Blown Away in Lumsden It blew near-gale or gale force four out of the five days we were at Lumsden ...
Lumsden Days
Berry Bounties Ganymede likes what every sailboat does; give her a wind just forward of the beam, a little more ...
Are We in Narnia?
The north coast of Newfoundland is indented by three or four deep bays, each full of islands, fjords, tickles and ...
What a Perlican Isn’t
Puzzled in Old Perlican It was our first stop after leaving St John’s—a small, crowded harbor, very busy, and full ...
Turning the Corner
One feels like a chump, almost, motoring through a calm with storm canvas up, but it had seemed prudent, given ...
Current Collision at Cape Race
We had been sailing through heavy fog for two days as we approached Trepassey harbor, helped along for the last ...
Time to See the Sea
To the very end, I think, we did our utmost toward the big transatlantic plan. Rushing through Nova Scotia and ...
A Little Slice of France
Summer, it seems, has arrived at last here in the middle north, and we got a beautiful weather window to ...
The Bras D’or Lakes lead us to Dragon Boats in Sydney
We had arrived in Canso with a slight feeling of urgency. Originally we had hoped to be sailing across the ...
Tickled in Canso Bay, NS
In winter I get up at night And dress by yellow candlelight. In summer, quite the other way, I have ...
Halifax to Weather
At the tail end of the weather forecast on the VHF radio, the only sort we can pick up on ...
Lunenburg Hospitality
Lunenburg proved everything we could wish in the way of amenities. Two grocery stores, a big hardware store, laundromat, library, ...
From Shelburne, NS to the Caribbean?
Shelburne, NS is a good harbor, in spite of a local Katabatic-sort of wind effect, where every afternoon we were ...
Sailing around Cape Sable
The wind finally laid down in Provincetown, though not until it had gotten really ugly, with Ganymede bucketing in three-foot ...
Passage to Provincetown
When I am in my ship, I see The other ships go sailing by. A sailor leans and calls to ...
Ready or not?
“Ready to go yet?” I heard the question over and over today. Fair enough—we’ve been ‘getting ready to cruise’ ever ...
Cruising Provisions and Preparatory Projects
I’d like to say that we’ve accomplished much in the week and a half since Ganymede relaunched and we returned ...
Ganymede’s Haulout
Just Like Old Times After spending two days working on Ganymede’s outboard engine, trying to get gasoline through the fuel ...
Ganymede out of her Winter Coccoon
And if the morning begins inauspiciously, should you still carry on with the plan? That was the big question Saturday, ...
Ganymede’s Non-systems
Six Simple Alternatives to Common Cruising Clutter As we prepare Ganymede to head off on the next and biggest leg ...
Ganymede’s winter turns to spring
It has been the longest, coldest winter Ganymede has ever seen—rightly so, since it’s our first in these northern parts, ...
Welcome to the Zartman cruising blog
Welcome to Zartman Cruising, the blog with which we hope more fully to chronicle our family’s sailing adventures, with all ...